Do you remember that feeling as a child when you were waiting for Christmas? How excited you were about decorating the Christmas tree, Santa coming to town bring you presents, the joy and excitement, feeling as if world was turning into fairy tale?
Not that I am no longer a Christmas fan, but the feeling I used to anticipate during holidays when I was little around I discovered again a couple of years ago, when I first attended London Fashion Week. I am always so much looking forward to that time, because this brings out the emotions in me as if I was living in a chapter from fairy tale. The shows, running around through showrooms, spotting vibrant street style, bumping into old and new fashion friends… This is what makes my heart race!
I have been regularly working with 55 Factory aka 55 Pages and I became a regular contributor to the magazine with my fashion illustration trends, which allows me to get to enjoy the LFW to the fullest.
MY LOOK – DAY ONE
Day one always has been the busiest for me – so I know that I had to wear something comfortable (meaning no high heels!). I decided to wear for the first time trainers from Max Mara – I invested in them with the thought of LFW and since I am a devoted shine lover I knew these need to belong to my wardrobe. I combined these with a long t-shirt / cape from the Ragged priest – (which I also thought is a weird LFW kind of thing when buying) and mermaid sequin skirt from Mohito. My style is always about mixing something extravagant with elegant, therefore I toned it down with a shirt (Cos) which I thought nicely layered with shiny fabric and grey hat (Miss Selfridge ) . The silver shine continued with jewellery and disco ball pouch from Lulu Guinness – of course I had to promote the brand I work for!
J. JS Lee
The day started off with attending the show from J. JS Lee which was held in the official BCF space. I have seen the last season’s show and the designer introduced bolder elements in her AW16 collection. I especially loved the suits that matched with the shoes in the same cross patch, colorful fabric. The whole collection was elegant, showcasing classic and well-toned silhouettes- I definitely think it was a stronger collection than last season.
After that I rushed into presentation of one of Clio Peppiatt – designer I am very happy to see evolving. I spotted for the very first time her collection a year ago in Freemasons Hall showrooms. I see a great progress in her branding, design and art direction. Since I have been a fan ever since I met Clio I love to attend her presentations, which are quirky, fun, retro and bring a lot of glamorous shine! I have a sweet spot for kitsch in fashion, therefore Clio wins my heart every time.
This season Clio invited her audience to her vision of motel – 60’s extravaganza in embelished motives, colorful furs shades of pink but with a fiery spirit (prints with matches!). It almost felt like as if her motel was taken over by Nabokov’s Lolitas, giving flirtatous looks in black berets with veils. The guests were served tiny cupcakes with a glittery cherry on top, which only later I found out was actually edible… (after long contemplation whether I should eat it and have my lipstick ruined wind made the decision for me – it blew it away!)
The collection was also a collaboration with Tatty Devine, famous for laser cut colorful jewellery (which I am a fan of also). I am very keen on seeing where Clio’s art direction goes and her brand definitely is on fashion radar.
Edeline Lee’s AW16 collection took a monochrome minimal direction and oversize shapes. I mostly admired the white, heavy weight fabric oversize dress with slouchy pockets which definitely was the focal point of the collection. I could see that dress look amazing in white snow scenery (if there is going to be any next winter?). However, it worked extremely well with the set design which was created for the presentation. It was an art form on its own – the geometric shapes mixed with mirror triangles, large chess pattern looked as if were taken from the edgy music video. There were also piles made of torn out colorful paper… I must admit that the props took my breath away, and it was hard to leave the spot once you finally could get into the front row of excited crowd taking pictures of this beautiful scenery.
Point Blank was a curious case. The invitation spoke of invaders, cosmos, toys and aliens… The presentation was held at one of the rooms of ICA. It was a show which you could attend at one time only about 15 people with allocated seats. In the small space there was a big round prop of some unknown planet filled out with toys and odd tiny objects. In the middle of the room – big ladder… The show started with model riding on the scooter, very high glittery boots were the focal point of her look. Another model would carelessly join playing a phone, or with a plastic rod, fishing plastic old school fish toys from the weird planet that started to spin around… Sounds abstract? I loved the idea and the concept, but it wasn’t well executed. The presentation was way too long and it was almost as if there was an amazing promise of great art direction which unfortunately got lost in the middle. I loved the initial concept of theater play – something that designers could be definitely taken further – but don’t make the audience stuck too long!
Faccchini’s collection was breath taking. I would definitely put it on the list of top 3 I have seen live over this season. The structural game of pattern cutting, elaborate knitwear, innovation in shoe design and execution of detail was a sign of mastery and fashion design of highest quality. The geometric, sharp silhouettes were brought out beautifully in a peaceful surrounding of library and among the large mirrored triangle props. There was an element of gothic darkness and disturb hidden within the strong textiles of these designs, which were masterfully brought out in advanced design craft. I was truly inspired by this collection.
Fyodor Golan is a designer duo whose new collections I am always looking forward to seeing. Known for the bold neon colors, shiny fabrics and pop approach to fashion they do win my heart and the collections are entertaining to watch. This time Fyodor Golan claimed to be inspired by the theme of birth of Venus – but enhanced by 60’s pin up and industrial pop.
The motif of Coca Cola, Pin up girls appeared on the looks, following the trends from Moschino or Anya Hindmarch… In my opinion these weren’t the strongest and most innovative designs. However, the collection definitely had its break through with super shiny, large pattern cutting coats or heavy embellished trousers had their entrance to the catwalk. I also loved the bald model who appeared in the show – it was an interesting twist in the show and was a curious interlink between the concept of Venus and industrialization.
The final show of Day 1 for me in a beautiful scenery at one of the London’s old hotels, where Costelloe’s large fashion illustrations on canvas were on display. The AW16 collection is ‘…Armed for adventure, (…) adding a dramatic edge to the classic style’ (press release). The jaquard, check prints mixed with leather was definitely for a strong woman. The music from Joe Cocker evoked the subtle sexual context and models definitely were bringing out an alluring tease wearing the short dresses with lace. Nevertheless, the collection remained its elegance and the designs were of Italian fashion design great craft. I think that it was the great tailoring kept the collection on higher level, otherwise it could have gone into a wrong direction of too ‘provoking’… Which fortunately wasn’t the case.
Day one of London Fashion Week was a day to remember and soon I will be posting my fashion reviews from Day two – stay tuned!